We visited Japan in December 2023. 4 days in Tokyo, 1 in Hakone, and 3 in Kyoto.
Before taking the flight to Japan you need to prepare for the trains. Trains are to Japan what cars are to the US, and you have not experienced Japan if you have not experienced trains.
The train network is efficient, effective, broad, and deep, and there are many options to get from A to B: Subway, JR, Bus, etc. Understanding how to use trains for the first time is daunting (you can also give up and just Uber for taxis, a totally viable option). 3 things make trains easy:
- Use google maps to get directions. The directions provided are very comprehensive that include: walking directions to the starting station, the train line, the platform, walking directions from the last station to destination, etc. The trains themselves have large screens that provide a lot of detail including the stations already covered, the stations coming up, the train car that you are in, the various exits on the next station relative to the car that you are in, etc. After a couple days, you realize that the google does not always provide the most optimized path, but it is indispensable in getting you hit the ground running.
- Use IC card for tickets. The trains, including the subway, metro and buses are owned and operated by many different companies, but all that complexity is made invisible by the IC card: https://www.jreast.co.jp/e/pass/suica.html. The easy way to get a Suica card is to just add it to the Apple wallet (androids are out of luck): https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT207155 and https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT212171. US issued Visa cards won't load money into Suica, some Mastercards will work erratically. The "One" prepaid debit card works flawlessly; walk into a Walmart and get it in a few minutes: https://www.walmart.com/cp/one-debit-card/3747098. Put enough money in the "One" card to cover the entire trip and keep adding to Suica as needed. You can pull remaining money out of the debit card at any time, and simply ignore the remaining balance in Suica at the end of the trip. Now that Suica is setup just tap iPhone on the gate at the station and keep going! Note that everyone traveling needs their own Suica card because the card needs to be tapped both at entry and exit.
- Use smartEX app for bullet trains. Suica card by itself is not sufficient to board the bullet trains needed for inter-city travel. The smartEX app on iPhone makes it easy to purchase tickets and reserve seats on bullet trains. The Suica cards once registered in the smartEX app allow you to tap and go on the bullet train gates at the station. Note that the bullet train platforms and tracks are totally separate and independent of the regular trains. You do need to install the Suica app on your phone to get your SuicaID that is needed to register the Suica card in smartEx.The Suica app is in Japanese only, but all you need to do is to tap on the "i" button to get the SuicaID, you will never use this app again. You will also need a working Mastercard for smartEX.
Overall:
The society and culture is built on the foundation of discipline, respect and politeness. It's one thing to read about these things but another to actually feel and experience it first hand on a large scale.
Walk on left in the streets and in corridors, because they drive on left.. Stand on left when taking escalators so people in hurry can pass you on the right. The only ugly experience we had in Japan was someone getting pushed pretty hard as she blocked the entrance to an escalator. She could have fallen down the moving metal steps!
No talking, cell phone ringing, eating or drinking on streets or on trains! Except bullet trains where eating and drinking is normal. The only clothes including shoes to wear are black, beige or very dark blue.
No trash or litter anywhere to be found, except on the Shibuya crossing (the Times Square of Tokyo) which is overrun by tourists. No trash cans to be found anywhere either, except bullet train stations or street food vendors (put trash at the same vendor where you bought food), you have to carry your trash back with you!
The cars including Taxis and even those that are over 20 years old are flawless. No dirt, dust, dings or dents, whatsoever.
The food is seafood, beef, pork, and rice (or noodles). Lot of salt and some fermented vegetables, mostly soybeans and radish. Dessert is mochi and sweet beans, strawberry and cream sandwiches, or custard and caramel. Good restaurants are small and cannot seat more than 10 people, reservations are required. Omakase is prevalent, where the chef will decide what you will eat and how you will eat: use chopstiks or hands, use this sauce or that salt, etc. If you cannot go with the flow, you probably won't enjoy it (are you good with biting into beef tongue when served with other fancy cuts of the meat!). https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Omakase
7 elevans are everywhere, the food is awesome, a must try!
Google translate app is a must to understand what is happening in the world around you. You can even have a limited conversation using the app.
Tokyo highlights:
The sweeping view of characteristic blinking red lights on Tokyo buildings from the Skytree as seen in futuristic animes and movies.
The exotic Tsukiji fish market; are you brave enough to try the whole grilled octopus, squid, and eel!
The mindfulness of the Rakuu Tei tea house in the Shinjuku Gyoen garden.
The bustle of the Akihabara electric town black market.
The maze of winding streets and shops around the Sensoji temple.
The hidden surprise of an underground city in the Tokyo station.
Hakone highlights:
The Hakone ropeway with majestic views of mount Fuji.
The early morning serenity of Hakone shrine.
Kyoto highlights:
Overcrowded and overrun by tourists.
The famous temples and surrounding areas: Kiyomizu-dera, Fushimi Inari Taisha, and Kinkakuji.
Rent a bike, the battery powered bikes are fun and biking is popular in Kyoto! Unless you hit the overcrowded tourist spots and you can barely walk!